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Three things you should know about tyres

TYRES HAVE EXPIRY DATE

To check how old is your tyre look for DOT marking. Tyres manufactured after year 2000, have a four digit code.


So, if you see DOT XXXX XXXX 3120, it means your tyre was made in the 31st week of 2020.  Three-digit codes are manufactured before the year 2000.


Rubber perishes over time and you wouldn’t like to use tyres that are more than 6 years old. Particular attention should be paid to tyres that are used infrequently; for example as fitted to spare wheels, trailers, caravans and specialist or collector’s vehicles.


WHAT SIZE OF TYRES DO YOU NEED?

This one is easy! It's written on the side of each tyre. 


The width of the tread expressed in millimetres, which in this illustration is 225;


The aspect ratio – height of the tyre sidewall as a percentage of the width, in this case it is 60% of 225mm;


The diameter of the tyre’s centre hole, expressed in inches. In this illustration, it is 18″.


The letter between the numbers is the type of construction i.e. ‘R’ Radial. So this tyre is a 225/60 R 18


HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST TYRE?

The labels currently comprise three pictures which each denote three separate things - fuel economy, wet grip and noise. 


For fuel economy letter A  means best rating, G is the worst. The difference between the best and worst rating can be 7.5%. As tyres account for 20% of a car’s overall fuel consumption, choosing wisely here can give significant savings.


The wet grip also has A to G marking, with A being the best, and G the worst. The difference between each letter is around 2.5 metres when braking from 50mph – that’s well over half a car-length. An ‘A’ rated tyre will come to a stop 18 metres before an ‘F’ rated tyre in the wet. 


The noise is measured in decibels and this information highlighted on the tyre labels, meaning you can decide which noise rating is the perfect choice for you. The labels on the tyres showing noise rating are indicated by using waves – one wave suggests the best and quietest performance, whereas three waves indicate the weakest and loudest tyre noise.


Did you know you don’t have to use main dealer if you have a car on PCP?
The popularity of PCP car finance has allowed car manufacturers to be rather sneaky when it comes to forcing you to have your car maintained by their dealer service network, something that many car buyers are unaware of.

‘I have a car on PCP, do I have to use the dealer service centre for all services or can I use an independent garage?”

Your car servicing rights allow you to have your car serviced outside the manufacturer dealer network without losing your warranty, but there is another issue to consider if your car is financed using a PCP.

Part of the attraction of PCP car finance is that the finance company will guarantee that the value of the car at the end of the term will at least cover the outstanding settlement figure. This is called the Guaranteed (Minimum) Future Value (GFV or GMFV) and it means that your worst-case scenario should be that you can simply give the car back with nothing more to pay.  

However, the GFV is dependent on three requirements that you must meet:

1. You must not exceed your agreed mileage over the duration of the term

2. The car must not require any repairs beyond normal wear and tear

3. You must have the car serviced by the official dealer network It’s the last item that we are concerned with today. 

The GFV is a value based on a car with no damage, limited mileage and a full manufacturer service history. If you do not have a FULL manufacturer service history (on time, every time, by an official dealership), then the finance company can either refuse to honour the GFV or charge you a hefty penalty fee.

“Do you have to have your car serviced by a dealership to keep your new car warranty?”

There is considerable confusion among car owners about their servicing requirements, especially regarding what is required for them to maintain their new car warranty. It’s a bit surprising, because the law has been pretty clear on this for many years now.  

 “I just bought a new BMW and the salesman told me I have to have it serviced by a BMW dealership to maintain the new car warranty. Is this correct? I have seen businesses claiming they can service my car without affecting the warranty.”

Assuming the above is an accurate portrayal of what was said, the BMW salesman has been very naughty here. EU legislation requires all car manufacturers to offer at least a two-year unlimited mileage new car warranty on all their new cars (from date of registration), regardless of any change of ownership. Every car salesperson knows this, or at least they should. Cars outside their original new car warranty are a different kettle of fish altogether, and not covered here.

Under EU Block Exemption legislation, which has been around for many years now, a manufacturer cannot force a buyer to have their car serviced by their official dealership network, and cannot refuse to honour a new car warranty simply because a car has been serviced elsewhere. 

However, a manufacturer does have the right to set a servicing schedule which must be adhered to. Once the UK leaves the EU, there is a remote possiblilty that a British government could eventually overturn this law, but it is unlikely to ever happen. Not only will it not be a priority anytime soon, but local consumer groups would fiercely resist any attempts by manufacturer interests to compel British car owners to go to franchised dealers for servicing. Many manufacturers offer new car warranty terms that are much longer than the minimum two-year period, but you need to check that the warranty provider is the same for the whole warranty period. Some importers offer a longer period, but after two years the warranty is provided by the local importer rather than the vehicle manufacturer, so the terms and conditions may be different.

New car warranty and servicing – your rights and responsibilities as a car owner, you have the right to take your car to any licenced garage or mechanic for servicing, but you must ensure that the servicing is carried out exactly as per the manufacturer’s servicing schedule. This means servicing must be undertaken on time and must use any genuine parts or lubricants specified by the manufacturer. If you choose to have your car serviced by an independent garage or mechanic, make sure they are reputable. Here at CGE Garage we always follow manufacturer recommendations (that's why we will never offer 'flat price' for service). 
Keep detailed invoices and receipts for all work done so you have proof that the car has been serviced according to schedule. If your car requires repair work under its new car warranty, the manufacturer has the right to insist that this work is undertaken by its official dealerships. This is entirely fair, since the manufacturer – rather than you – is paying for this work. Basically, a good rule to remember is that if you’re paying for the work, you have the right to choose who does the work.  

What if it’s not a manufacturer’s new car warranty?
Not all warranties are provided by the vehicle manufacturer, and here you need to be careful. Many dealers will offer you extended warranties for a new car, or a used car warranty of some description, but these are usually not provided by the manufacturer and are basically aftermarket insurance policies. As such, the requirements may be different and may tie you to a particular dealer or franchise for servicing. What about my car finance obligations? It is important to understand that although your new car warranty will not be affected if you service your car outside the dealer network, it may affect your car finance agreement. Many PCP agreements will insist that the car has to be serviced by an approved franchised workshop to maintain the GMFV if you want to give the car back at the end of the agreement, and if you have a lease then you will also be expected to service the car with a dealership.

This article is a courtesy of: https://www.thecarexpert.co.uk/service-my-car-pcp-car-finance

How to make your air-con last longer

KEEP WINDOWS SHUT

Air conditioning works similarly to your fridge or freezer at home; it removes heat and moisture and leaves you just with the cool, crisp air that makes long drives on hot days bearable. Just like your fridge however, you’ll need to seal in the cold air to make sure that the system works correctly, which means making sure that your car’s windows are shut while the air-con is switched on- think of it as being like leaving the fridge door open. Not only do you lose out on the full effect of the air conditioner’s cooling air with the window open, but you also run the risk of running down your air conditioning’s charge, meaning you’ll need to book your car in for a re-gas sooner as well as getting less efficient fuel consumption as your engine works harder to maintain a consistent temperature.

USE AIRCON REGULARILY

While you may think you’re ‘saving’ your air conditioning gas by not using it so often, leaving it for long periods of time can cause it to go ‘stale’, limiting its effectiveness. Fortunately, your car’s air conditioning can be useful all year round, as air conditioning is more effective for clearing mist from your windscreen than using the fans alone.

LET THE FAN RUN

While your air conditioning is running, moisture will build up in the filters, which eventually causes the bacteria which leads to bad smells coming from the vents. To help prevent this, turning off your car’s air-con a few minutes before the end of your journey and running the fans can help remove the excess water that would otherwise be left in your car’s air conditioning filters.

REGULAR RECHARGES & ANTI BACTERIA CLEANING
Air conditioning recharges should be carried out on your car on average once every two years; these recharges help ensure that the gas in your car’s air-con systems is at the correct level and provides the coolest air possible whenever you need it.  

Smelly air con

Smells coming from a car’s air conditioning is a common problem, but in many cases it’s one with a simple solution, with regular maintenance helping to ensure that your air con stays fresh all year round.   

MOULD
This is the most common factor that can cause your aircon to smell. An aircon unit will humidify the air inside your car and will encourage a mould growth, causing a musty smell to waft from your car’s vents. It is better to clean your aircon regularly to remove some moulds. There are some chemical solutions used to reduce the mould growth in your car.

GAS LEAK
If you smell gas every time you turn on your car aircon, then your car may have a gas leak. When you turn on your A/C unit, the gas smell is being sucked into the fresh air that the air conditioner is taking. To solve this problem, you need to repair the leak as soon as possible. There are several areas where you can check for a gas leak. Inspect the fuel pressure regulator of your engine to see if the leak is in this area. You can also check the fuel injector "O" rings in the engine compartment for any leaks. It is also advisable to check your exhaust pipes and muffler for any holes that can cause gas leaks. Alternatively, bring your car to us and get it checked.

DIRTY FILTER
Dirty filter This is another reason why you may have some bad odours coming from your A/C unit. Pollen filter or incar air filter is very useful to filter all impurities from your aircon unit, for example dust, mould, bacteria, and some other impurities. When this filter is dirty, you may be able to smell some bad odours coming from you’re A/C unit. This filter should be replaced every service, or annually to keep it working properly.

LEAK IN COOLING SYSTEM
Most aircon units work with their cooling system. If the cooling system in your car smells sweet, then you should have your unit checked immediately. The sweet smell is often the cause of toxic liquid ethylene glycol or antifreeze. This smell is the result of a leak in the cooling system. The leak can come from the heater core, pipe or hose, coolant housing unit, or the radiator. If the system has a leak, most gas will escape to the environment leaving your car’s aircon system empty, and your car smelly. To remedy the leak, you should test the system to check where the leak is coming from, and have it fixed. 

EXCESSIVE WATER CONDENSATION
There are some cases where your aircon may accumulate water condensation. Excessive water on your unit may cause some bad odours in your car. Repairing the condensation system can treat this problem. Make sure that the condensation system can work properly with the right temperature and system. Excessive water condensation can also trigger the development of some moulds on you’re A/C unit.

CLOGGED AIRCON SYSTEM
 When your aircon system is clogged, it may also produce some bad odours. When it is clogged, you are able to smell some odours coming from some impurities, such as bacteria, mould, or dust. It is recommended that you clean your aircon system regularly. By doing so, you are able to prevent the clogged air conditioner from happening in the future. UNCONTROLLED BACTERIA GROWTH This problem may also cause some bad odours coming from your car aircon unit. There are some bacteria that can cause bad odours, for example Aspergillums and Penicillium. These two main types of bacteria can grow well inside your aircon unit, especially if you do not clean your air conditioner regularly. There are some chemical solutions that you should use to eliminate these bacteria as quickly as you can.  
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How to find your car's MOT history, status, and service history?

Gov.uk website will provide information about the MOT test results since 2005. If vehicle had failed an MOT it’ll list the reasons why. To check the MOT history of a vehicle go to: https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk  

To check MOT and tax status i.e. is the vehicle taxed and has a valid MOT, go to: https://vehicleenquiry.service.gov.uk

If you have bought a car that didn't come with a full service history you might be able to track down some of it If you have bought a car that didn't come with a full service history you might be able to track down some of it.

Most garages now have computerised files, making it easier to piece together a missing history. However, if the original garage has gone out of business or has been bought by another company, records could get lost or deleted in these situations.  

First, contact the manufacturer and ask them to tell you what they can about your car using the VIN to identify it (you can find the VIN on your car's door frame or in the engine compartment). They should be able to tell you which dealer originally supplied the vehicle when it was new. 

You can then approach the dealer and see if they have information on your car. There is a danger that the car was serviced at more than one garage, and then you won't know who to contact.  

A few manufacturers, such as Renault and Mazda, have centralised records, so if you go into a main dealer they should be able to give you all the service history for that car. Another possibility is to track down previous owners of the vehicle, to see if they may still have the car's servicing books or know where they took it for servicing. 

To do this, you need to contact the DVLA (Driver and Vehicle Licensing Agency) by letter. You need to write to them, quoting your car's registration number and the reason for your request, at Vehicle Record Enquiries, Vehicle Customer Services, DVLA, Swansea SA99 1AJ. The DVLA will charge £5 for this service.


Sources:
https://www.gov.uk
https://www.whatcar.com/advice/owning/how-to-find-your-cars-service-history/
Things you did not know about engine oil

Things you didn't know about engine oil

What type of oil should you use in your car? Is cheap engine oil as good as the expensive brands? 
Five things you probably didn't know about car engine oil.

There are different oils for diesel and petrol engines, turbocharged and non-turbocharged plus a variety of grades and viscosities. Of course, it’s not all bad news because modern cars tend not to burn as much oil as they did back in the day, but that just makes it all the harder to check the oil on the rare occasions when you need to. Let's try and make some sense of it all, shall we?

What those numbers mean?

SAE 20W50, which simply meant that the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) classified it as a ‘20’ thickness in the winter when it was cold (yes, ‘W’ stands for winter!) and a ‘50’ thickness in the summer when it was hot. This is important because an oil needs to be thin enough to allow the engine to start when the oil is heavy and treacle-like in the depths of winter, while remaining thick enough to lubricate the engine properly when it is very hot after running for hours in a traffic jam at the height of summer.

What about the letters?

Oil containers have letters as well as numbers. The most common are those assigned by the API, or American Petroleum Institute. These two-digit letters will start with an ‘S’ (for spark, ie, a petrol engine) or a ‘C’ (for compression, ie, a diesel engine), followed by another letter that relates to the year it was introduced. The European Automobile Manufacturers Association (ACEA) provides the equivalent European specification. The ACEA marking starts with an ‘A’ for petrol engines, ‘B’ for diesel, ‘C’ for cars with catalytic converters, and ‘E’ for heavy-duty diesel engines. The latest number is each category is A5/B5, C4 and E9. As with viscosity, your car’s handbook will tell you which oil meets your car’s requirements and you shouldn’t deviate from that recommendation.

What oil your car needs?

Modern engines run much closer tolerances than older engines so need thinner oil. So whereas a 20W50 was common back in the 1960s and 1970s, you are now more likely to need a 0W30, or a 5W40. As ever, check your car’s handbook for details. Will cheap engine oil do the job? The two key pieces of information are the SAE viscosity rating and the API/ACEA code. As long as those two are being met then yes, cheaper oil should do the job as well as more expensive oil. However, there is one caveat to that: counterfeiting of engine oil is a problem, so only buy from a reputable retailer or garage because the £5 bottle of oil that’s being sold at your local car boot sale might not be all it claims to be…

How to check your oil?

The chances are that your dipstick and oil filler cap are yellow, making them easy to find. If it isn’t obvious, then your car’s handbook will show you where they are. To check your oil:
• Make sure you have the recommended engine oil to hand.
• Turn your engine off and let it stand for five minutes or more to let the oil drain into the bottom of the engine. Be careful if the engine has been running as everything under the bonnet – including the oil – will be scalding hot. This is why I check my oil first thing in the morning when the car is cold.
• Pull out the dipstick. Wipe it on a lint-free cloth or piece of kitchen roll.
• Push the dipstick back in and make sure it is fully seated. Withdraw and look at where the oil level is.
• There are two marks on your dipstick and the gap between the two is one litre. This helps you gauge whether you need to add a whole one-litre bottle, or just a small part of it.
•If you need more oil then undo the oil filler cap. Top up the oil carefully, making sure not to spill any on the engine. (If you do spill some, wipe it up; it won’t harm your engine but might make a small amount of smoke when it burns off!) 
 • Give it a minute or so to drain to the bottom of the engine. Wipe the dipstick and re-check the oil level.
 • Repeat until your oil is level with the ‘full’ mark on your dipstick. 
 • Replace the dipstick and oil filler cap.

Source: https://www.saga.co.uk/magazine/motoring/cars/using/2016/5-things-you-didnt-know-about-car-oil  
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